Dampfbuchteln - Sweet Yeast Dumplings
August 5th, 2005

Once we had left the city limits, the first welcoming and pleasant difference I noticed was fresh air. Despite our proximity to the alps, city-air can be at times annoying if not displeasing. So we were off for a weekend in the countryside, visiting friends and family and enjoying some down to earth, rural cooking. Of course, to being able to show proof we took a few pictures (>>more), documenting our most recent farmland experiences (nothing compared to what Susan over at Farmgirl Fare does on a daily basis).

Garden Breakfast
>>more pictures (pop-up)

A long those lines I thought it’d be time to highlight another typical and basic dish I fell in love with as a kid (and still love!): Dampfbuchteln or Dampfnudeln – it probably won’t get more traditional than this. In an attempt to produce (well, research first) some background info on them, about their origin, the nomenclature, how recipes developed etc. I rather quickly came down to earth and the conclusion that there is no way this can be covered in a regular size post. It seems that there is an infinite number of recipes and preparations, variations of recipes and variations of variations….Rohrnudeln, Hefenudeln, Dampfnudeln, Buchteln, Germknödel and what not – just to name a few.

Sweet Dumplings

Sweet dumplings are indeed esteemed mostly as a dessert but can of course also be enjoyed as a main dish. You can have them with, e.g. vanilla sauce (like we do) or fruit soup – some people like to hide stuff in them fill them with jam (plum-jam or Powidl), the possibilities are endless. For me, their origin lies in Bohemia, where my grandpa and his mother immigrated from – it was she who taught my grandma how to make them. Granny used to provide the whole family with them on a regular basis and I used to watch her kneading the dough whenever I was around. As she helped her brother in his little bakery, making yeast dough was the most natural thing to her – probably the reason, why I never was afraid of working with yeast. Despite all possible silly culinary mistakes I’ve made, I never ran into any problems using yeast. On the contrary, sometimes I’m caught off guard by how high the dough rises. Then there is also dry yeast. In the rare moments I ever used dry yeast (when the recipe explicitly called for it), high expectations turned into disappointment. The dough didn’t rise a single millimeter and was tough as hell! Some of my principles when using fresh yeast, most of them delivered to me by my grandma but can also be found in many baking books: I only use really fresh yeast, not some that has a day left to go bad (if you’re lucky, you can buy real “Bäckerhefe” from your local bakery). Make sure the yeast doesn’t get in contact with the pinch of salt (if needed) at the very beginning (while preparing the sponge). While the dough (covered with a kitchen towel) should rest and rise, I place it at a rather safe (no drafts), warm place. In the winter I put it next to the heating, in the summer I preheat the oven for just half a minute (do not forget to turn it back off) and put the bowl inside, leaving the door open a bit.

Sadly my grandma didn’t write down all of her recipes – so I don’t have her original recipe. Several I have tried over the last years, and finally I found one, that could at least compete with hers. Well, almost ;)

Dumplings

For the dumplings

Sieve flour into a bowl and make a little depression in the middle. Take 2 tbsp of the milk and 2tbsp of the sugar and combine with the yeast. Once the yeast is fully dissolved, pour into depression and whisk in a little flour. Cover bowl with a kitchen towel and let the dough rise for about 15 minutes.

Add the remaining ingredients and beat well until dough can be easily removed from the bowl (non-sticky). If it still feels too sticky, add some more flour. Again, let the covered bowl rest at a warm place for about 30 min. (size of dough should double).

Knead dough one more time and toss on a floured pastry board. Cut in equal pieces and form snow ball sized dumplings.

Butter casserole or a larger pan and also pour some sugar in, until the bottom is more or less equally covered. Now add the dumplings, arranged next to each other, touching each other. Brush some melted butter over them. Cover and let rise a last time (about 15 minutes), then bake in preheated oven at 190 °C for about 30 minutes. They should take on a light golden-brown color.

Prepping the dumplings

For the vanilla sauce

Meanwhile prepare the vanilla sauce by bringing the milk to a boil. Blend sugar, egg yolks, starch and the scraped out vanilla seeds with the 6 tablespoons of chilled milk.
2 Now combine the mix with the milk on the stove and while continuously stirring, bring to a boil again. Remove from heat and serve hot with the Dampfbuchteln. Optionally served with cinnamon sugar sprinkled on top.

Dampfbuchteln - Sweet Yeast Dumplings

Recipe source: Das große Buch der österreichischen Mehlspeisen, Josef Zauner (p. 387)

Required time: preparation (inc. the time to let the dough rise) about 1.5 hours, baking 30 min., serves 4-5

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Ingredients for Dumplings:

250g flour

125ml lukewarm milk

10g fresh yeast

50g sugar

50g butter

2 egg yolks

a pinch of salt

additional butter for the casserole and brushing the Dampfbuchteln

additional sugar for the casserole

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Ingredients for vanilla sauce (serves 2):

250ml milk

6 tbsp chilled milk

20g sugar

2 egg yolks

1 tbsp starch

half of a vanilla bean

Chocolate Earl Grey Truffles and Gelato - IMBB no. 17
July 30th, 2005

The dessert genius Clement over at the most extraordinary and puristic “à la cuisine!” chose a truly elaborate theme for this month’s IMBB: tasteTEA it is! Wow, I couldn’t have been more exited! On second thought: I’m finding myself entangled in the dreadful, same old dilemma about what to do with the 1000 and more options that are spinning in my head…

We are tea-people. Well, since Harry opened up his little coffee shop gem in our immediate neighborhood, our coffee consumption went not quite through the roof but I’d say increased significantly (who could resist a Cortado based on authentic, single-growing area, single harvest Arabica beans). Nevertheless, we are indeed tea-people. Black tea, green tea, fruit tea, herb tea, any tea, you name it. In the midst of winter, I can drink chamomile tea like others drink water. To the extend that colleagues would sometimes make fun of my office space, rhetorically asking “is there a noticeable whiff of hospital smell” (German hospitals have the tendency to drown patients in chamomile tea). I only need to account for a balanced consumption of black/green tea and herb tea – otherwise I would probably be on a constant theine-high…

Tea House

Our tea shop of choice in Munich (as mentioned earlier) is the Teahouse, which is said to have one of the largest selections in Germany. What got me hooked, is how they present their variety: Cute little metal tins with tea name stickers on them, so you can browse through (and literally stick your nose in!) hundreds of wonderful tea blends. Additionally, they always have one or two freshly brewed teas prepared, one is invited to try for free – always a great opportunity to discover something new at each visit.

my cup of tea

On another note, one of my beloved passions – flea markets – perfectly supports our love for tea. Some of the nicest tea cups (true old-timers) have been discovered there and my collection of tea pots is continuously growing – Somehow I (aka the collector) sense though that a little discussion with O. (Mr. I – don’t – need – to – collect – everything) on slowing down my quirk a tiny bit is somewhat inevitable… :)

Earl Grey truffles

Chocolate Earl Grey Truffles

Although Matcha seems to be the tea these days, I opted for our all-time favorite – Earl Grey.

Combine cream and butter in a saucepan and bring to a boil, then remove from the heat. Add 3-4 teaspoons of Earl Grey tea leaves (or any favorite tea?) and let rest for about 5 minutes.

Chop dark chocolate into smaller pieces or use a grater (or food processor) and transfer it to a bowl. Strain cream through a sieve onto grated/finely chopped chocolate, discarding the tea leaves. Whisk until smooth. Cover ganache and chill for at least 4 hours or even over night (as I did).

Portion ganache teaspoon-wise, dust your palms with cocoa powder and roll each piece of the ganache into a ball. This was the fun part – and messy one, too! I used a good portion of cocoa powder, because it made the procedure much easier. Then drop several balls at a time into the bowl of cocoa and swivel to coat. Store at cool temperature.

Side Notes:
I always thought that grinding chocolate in a food processor would end up in a gigantic mess, the more I was surprised how great it actually works, much much better than doing it manually with a grater.

Additionally, I used some special chocolate couverture (more on that is soon to come), but the truffles almost melted whenI tried to cover them with the molten chocolate. In a last attempt I rolled them in only a tiny amount, which I had dropped onto a plate, and turned them in cocoa afterwards. Those truffles got a nice irregular outfit, a little more work but rewarding in the end (image above). Because of the type of chocolate used, their taste definitely had to grow on me. In contrast to O. who fell for them from the get-go, my tastebuds intial signal was “this is bitter! – a lot“, what soon changed to a “ah, nice tea flavour, verrrrry nice texture…” Nibbling away my first truffle, I got used to the bitterness (I used bittersweet chocolate and no sugar, what had I expected?) and began to finally really enjoy it. Felt like a real grown-up treat, those with an acquired taste might travel miles for ;)

Earl Grey Gelato

Earl Grey Gelato

A cream-free vanilla gelato had been on my list for ages now, hence I thought about giving the original recipe a little “correction” and swapped the vanilla for – again – Earl Grey tea. Which turned out so good, it made first place of our personal gelato-highlights this year – well, so far! Not too sweet, wonderful light consistency and most importantly, a very distinguished Earl Grey tea flavor.

Combine milk, sugar, Earl Grey tea and heat up over medium heat. Stir frequently until the sugar is fully dissolved. Strain and discard the tea leaves.

Beat egg yolks until they take on a lighter color, about 3-4 minutes. Then add the hot (not boiling) milk to the yolks while continuously whisking. Put the mix back on the stove and slowly heat up (do not boil). Continue to stir until mix thickens and covers the back of a wooden spoon. Remove from heat and allow to chill.

Let your ice cream machine take over…

Chocolate Earl Grey Truffles

Recipe source: Epicurious, adaptation

Required time: preparation 30 min., chilling at least 4 hours

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Ingredients (yield: 30 truffles):

160ml heavy cream

2 tbsp butter (unsalted), softened

3-4 tsp loose Earl Grey tea leaves

170g high-quality dark chocolate (70%)

1 cup of unsweetend cocoa powder, transferred to a bowl

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Earl Grey Gelato

Recipe source: Adaptation of vanilla gelato, based on Rosemary Moon's "Eiscreme selbstgemacht" (p. 72)

Required time: preparation 15 min., chilling: 1 hour, ice-cream machine: ~45min.

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Ingredients (serves 2-4):

600 ml milk

6 egg yolks

4-5 tsp loose Earl Grey tea leaves

50-70 g sugar, up to the desired sweetness

Red Currant Sorbet
July 28th, 2005

The news probably came as a shock to the clusters of red currants that were parked next to our fruit plate the last 2 days. We actually had bought them to make some fine red currant & strawberry jam, but in lack of finding a basket of good quality strawberries and with the high temperatures (33 °C/91 °F) I felt like changing plans – trading in a hot job for a cool thing.

All our sorbets are based on the same principles: combining fruit/herb puree (strained) with the right amount of molasses. Sounds easy enough? Once you have made one, there is no way back – it’s highly addictive. In fact the next concoctions are already in the making :)

On the contrary, what’s not easy is trying to capture sorbet at 33 °C on film. O.

Red Currant Sorbet

Detach berries from the stems and puree with a food processor. Run puree through a strainer (optionally lined with cheese cloth) and set aside.

For the syrup: Put the water, the sugar and the lime zest into a pot and bring to a boil. Let simmer for about 4-5 minutes, then remove from heat and let completely chill.

Combine the juice of one orange with the berry juice/pulp and add syrup. Usually I prepare about 20% more molasses to start with and decide on the fly how much I want to add to the fruit mix depending on the level of tartness I’m after.

Either use an ice cream machine or simply put it the mix in the freezer, but don’t forget to check back with the sorbet every so many hours (depending how cold the freezer is set) and stir well to ensure a uniform texture. A trick I’ve tried for the first time and found it to be working extremely well, is to pour the semi fredo sorbet into the food processor again, blend well and send it back to the freezer. This way all larger ice crystals are crushed and the texture becomes very smooth.

Red Currant Sorbet

Recipe source: Own creation

Required time: preparation 25 min., chilling 4-6 hours

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Ingredients (serves 4-5):

150ml water

140g sugar

juice of 1 orange

250ml of red currant juice/pulp (strained)

Oven Dried Tomatoes - Really a No-Brainer
July 24th, 2005

Anything that has an unusual color or shape attracts me. So I had no choice but to give the vegetable stall owner my money and in return walk away with a bag of orange cocktail tomatoes. Regular Joe tomatoes on the other hand seem to continuously become larger and decreasingly tasty – I buy them less and less. Sometimes, depending on the use, I might open up a can of whole tomatoes (not diced); e.g. for self-made pizza. But these little orange fellows are so yummy, they have a valid shot at becoming my new favorite tomato. Barring the mess I made, when I popped the first one into my mouth (unwashed – shame on me…), all bite-happy. This tomato was so juicy, it burst and left me with spots of tomato juice on the counter, the unpacked groceries and – of course – my T. Greedy me.

oven dried tomatoes

What happened to regular tomatoes? Not to derail on another nostalgic detour, but good tasting tomatoes always bring up memories of my grandma’s vegetable garden, including her greenhouse. In retrospect, I guess everything was greener, more lush and tasted better, but those tomatoes must have had a lasting impression on me. Since discovering the tiny cocktail tomatoes, I basically ignore today’s regular ones. Well, probably with a few exceptions, but I never enjoy regular ones as much as my loved little friends. On a side note: With these there is no need to cut out the stems, which always meant additional work with regular tomatoes (firstly because those parts don’t taste good, secondly because they contain traces of a poison called Solanine).

One of the more elegant/advanced enhancements to jazz up a sandwich or panino are sun or oven dried tomatoes. However, the ones you can buy are often either TOO expensive, TOO strong in taste or TOO chewy. So why not try to make them myself?
‘Still experimenting with the “right” oven temperature and duration – the good news is, you can’t really screw it up unless you leave them in over night and forget about them the next morning (the aroma in the apartment was great though :) Squeezing Google beforehand didn’t necessarily make things easier, as no two recipes had the same temperatures or durations for roasting/drying the tomatoes. So it was down to us with a pinch of common sense to watch and step in (in case they get too dark and burn). We made those tomatoes about twice a week during last month and always keep a handful in a jar filled with olive oil – they’re that yummy! Always good for a quick panino or simply an out – of – the – glass – straight – into – your – mouth – delight. Hmmmm.

no yet oven dried toamtoes

Wash, pad dry and half the cocktail tomatoes. Of course you can also use regular tomatoes, just slice them in quarters (or sixth). Some recipes recommend to discard the seeds, but I don’t see the need to (at least with the smaller tomatoes).

Cover baking sheet or casserole with olive oil and arrange tomatoes cut-side up. Sprinkle with coarse sea salt and if you like to, with garlic, dried and/or fresh herbs (like thyme, oregano…).

Dry in the preheated oven at 100 degrees Celsius (210 degrees F) for 4-6 hours. Times and temperature may vary (as indicated) based on your oven, the size of the tomatoes and of course your preference. Just try and find out what works best for you.

Kept in a jar with olive oil they last for days (if not weeks).