October 7th
2007
First off, let me say that I'm sorry Chris you missed out on a great food experience, but we fully sympathize and understand why you chose not to be there. Chris, who are you anyway?
Even though our trip has undergone many, many revisions and the timing of when to be where had military grade accuracy, one date was rock solid. The French Laundry. As soon as we had decided to do it, we were confronted with the challenge of what the best reservation tactics would be. Californian friends and food bloggers told us to not set our expectations too high - it's (still) pretty difficult to secure a table at America's no.1 restaurant. Consulting Google brought different strategies to light, one of them, using Open Table, didn't work for us. So I tried calling TFL directly, long, long distance. Got through within 10 minutes of speed-dialing, but was put on hold immediately - ahhh, darn, where's my credit card? Five minutes went by - meanwhile I was holding tight onto my credit card - then 10 and 15. Had they forgotten about me? That's when I heard a sudden click and somebody introduced herself as part of The French Laundry Reservation Service. Five minutes later a confirmation email had popped up in my Inbox - it was official, we were going to The French Laundry in September!
From the outside The French Laundry doesn't look spectacular, we were more impressed by their vegetable patch right across the street (which will have to make way for a new Inn, or so the rumors say). Moments later we found ourselves seated on the first floor next to two parties of four and across another party of two. Our modest attempt to inquire about non-flash-discrete-photography was acknowledged with a positive nod, followed by a few flash shots at the table next to us. So there.
Reception and general service were impeccable, friendly but not overly communicative. That latter part was gladly covered by the last party yet to arrive in our room. Up until we enjoyed our first three courses in an atmosphere you'd expect from a three star restaurant, then a family of six crashed the party were seated and clearly demonstrated vocal superiority from the get-go:
So picking up on the opening line, Chris couldn't be there with the rest of the fam since he was the boyfriend of the twenty some year old daughter who he has just dumped. Especially dad couldn't stop but making fun of Chris who was missing out on the feast. Which soon enough caused the girl to start crying. Big tears. Wow, this is stuff soaps are made of. Almost like roadkill you don't want to, but you have to peek. It gets better. So the daughter gets up and walks around the table to be petted and calmed by mom, meanwhile the stand-in guy started selling himself to the family.
For all we know today, he has received various scholarships and only needs to pay back a 30 grant loan. He seems to do well, with a GPA of 4.2 - what a stud. Outside of the family tragic we learned the one or other inside news about Charlize Theron and a homophobic senator who's name I can't recall. If you're thinking now wait a second I thought this was about food, I completely agree. While the other tables obviously found it extremely irritating, we tried to make the best out of it and almost enjoyed the extra entertainment. The couple across from our table (could have been a Harvard professor and Helen Mirren) was definitely not amused and decisively showed its disapproval, but the staff continued to serve the table and carried it off well.
Chef's tasting menu:
CAULIFLOWER "PANNA COTTA""
with Beau Soleil Oyster Glaze and Sterling White Sturgeon Caviar
MOULARD DUCK "FOIE GRAS EN TERRINE"
Summerset Peaches, Whole Grain Mustard Aigre Doux, Arugula and "Foie Gras Genoise"
SAUTÉED SABLEFISH
Ragout of Yukon Gold Potatoes, English Cucumbers, "Ikura", Kendall Farms Crème Fraiche and Garden Dill
SWEET BUTTER-POACHED MAINE LOBSTER
Brentwood Sweet Corn, Swiss Chard and Applewood Smoked Bacon
FOUR STORY HILL FARM "POULARDE PARFUMÉE À L'AIL ET AUX THYM"
Wilted Spinach, Cippolini Onion and Caramelized Onion Jus
BOUILLON-POACHED ELYSIAN FIELDS FARM LAMB RIBEYE
Toasted Barley, Hen of the Woods Mushrooms, Thumbelina Carrots and Sauce Bordelaise
ANDANTE DAIRY "ACAPELLA"
Celery Branch, Perigord Truffle Vinaigrette and Grated K&J Orchard Chestnuts
GRAPE SORBET
Sultana "Financier", Verjus Foam and Raisin "Coulis"
"DÉLICE AU CHOCOLAT ET À LA MENTHE"
with Amedei Chuao Chocolate-Mint "Parfait" and Mint Syrup
"MIGNARDISES"
My favorite courses that day were the grape sorbet as well as the foie gras, Oliver would have picked either the cauliflower panna cotta or the lobster. They served some really fantastic and exceptional courses, but looking at it at large - e.g. the Poularde was sort of a let-down - not the totally-of-your-feet-whipping-fantastic-kind. If you ever decide to cough up the extra dough to spoil yourself with a visit to The French Laundry, make sure to reset your expectations to a normal level and simply enjoy great food. And I still wonder if guest management plays a role in getting a 3rd star? The behavior of the party of six was inappropriate for a high-class restaurant and clearly narrowing the pleasure of the other guests in the room, should this be tolerated by the staff? Or are you - as a guest - supposed to intervene yourself?
Mein Vater hätte da seinen Lieblingssatz ausgepackt: Erwarte nicht, dass Leute die Geld haben sich auch zu benehmen wissen. Sicher etwas übertrieben formuliert, trotzdem! Meiner Meinung nach wären der Gastgeber und seine Angestellten hier in der Pflicht gewesen.
Argh, that's annoying, though I have to say I really started to get involved with her plight! :) I hope she and Chris worked it out in the end. Ha. That grape sorbet is a shocking (beautiful) color... Was the mint chocolate any good? Amadei...yum.
The last course looked like a place of chocolate jewels!
Fascinating! And as close as I'll probably ever get to a meal at TFL. As for your dilemma, I think you chose the only successful way of dealing with it. If anyone had intervened it would probably only have gotten worse.
Wow, I don't know what I want more--a dish of the grape sorbet or to see Chris and the daughter get back together. That stand-in guy doesn't sound like he's worth a day-old doggie bag of sauteed sable fish.
Either way, I appreciate the updated review of the French Laundry, since I CAN NEVER GET A RESERVATION OF MY OWN. As usual, I love the pictures. They are the next best thing to being there! If only they served biscuits and grits....
That Chris-opening is hilarious (although I would have found it incredibly annoying if I had been dining next to them). The meal looks fabulous, Nicky - I would happily eat a Chef's menu like this (I'd probably even try the lobster for the first time in my life, as it looks really appealing on the plate)!
Well done for securing the reservation, and thanks for sharing the experience with us!
I have to admit that I enjoy little of an eavesdropping in restaurant and cafes... and such a heartbreaking drama would be a great treat for my "drama queen" soul! Just imagine that you had to listen to the conversation of the "Harvard professor and Helen Mirren" couple! I assume it would be such a boredom. This way you at least had some fun!
gosh i'd have loved to be there with you - seated at the table instead of those obnoxious people. i do behave in restaurants.... usually. the world isn't fair.
i don't think i would ever intervene as a guest, but would expect the staff to if it got really unbearable for other diners. Must agree with Herb - money can't buy good manners, unfortunately, and these days, i find similar people sharing my dining experiences quite often - london is the perfect breeding ground for people who can easily afford the finer things in life, but haven't got any culture. or manners. or respsct for other people, for that matter.
glad to hear that you still managed to enjoy it!
I completely agree about not letting your expectations about French Laundry soar too high. It's a magnificent restaurant, but for some reason I can't quite define to myself, the meals I've had there have not been the most memorable of my life.
Sorry about the obnixious other diners, but I think it would have been very difficult for the restaurant management to do much about it. May their karma kick them in the butts in the near future.
I think you made the best out of your dining situation. We, too, had negative experiences with improper guest behaviour in expensive restaurants, but I have yet to come across a restaurant that diplomatically intervenes.
I figure that as long as an obnoxious table offers up talk worth eavesdropping on, it's worth it sitting near it. And tell me you've read French Laundry at Home!
I love the drama that abounded during your meal...like a little French movie unfolding, course by course. The chocolates are like little treasures!
Great Post. Even greater headline.
I love your photos, but was that really the size of the servings? I know it's a tasting menu, but the portions look small than the ones served to the judges on Iron Chef America!? I know FL typically cost around $250 to $300 per person, so not sure if you felt you got your money's worth, especially with the extra dinner conversations.
The French Laundry! It must have been truly incredible, despite the annoyances of another family's drama nearby. The photography made my mouth water.
Mmmm, I ate at their other restaurant Bouchon and the food was fab... come to think of it I SO wanted to photo but didn't dare: thanks for sharing your photos! I promise to ask next time...
OH and there was a very drunk couple at the bar next to us... also amusing between divine, petite courses... lovely post, even I could almost hear this soap opera family:).
Single Guy Chef, I wouldn't be surprised if those really were the size of the servings. It seems to me the more expensive your food gets the less of it you get to eat.
I guess no one told you that in America, it's perfectly acceptable to punch someone in the nose whose ruining your dinner by being loud and obnoxious.
Now you know, for the next time.
At the risk of sounding like a fuddy-duddy, I think the restaurant staff should have gently intervened to ask the party to keep their voices down a little. That much respect is owed to all the other customers in the room!
Great article; from the tone of your post, it seems like you weren't blown away so much by the food (or services). I have never been to TFL even though I used to live in the bay area for years. I am always skeptical about those so-called "The Best Restaurants in the World" thing, I mean, it's not scientific. How do you define BEST? Personally, the best restaurants in the world don't have to be all-hyped up or much written about, it's what makes your eating experience so much more satisfying that your stomach and yourself feels deliriously happy after the meal--perhaps it's that bowl of noodles or dishes from that hole-in-the-wall restaurant in Malaysia, or a pho hawker stall in Saigon, or a friendly mom-and-pop restaurant in Prague that no food critics or writers ever go to. :P
Sara, The chocolate dessert didn't come any near the delight I found while eating the sorbet... Funny that you mention the color, we're still clueless how they have achieved it... blue grapes + Paco Jet = Pink?
Herb, Das mit dem Geld und Manieren stimmt leider nur allzu oft ;)
Sanja, "Drama queen" soul - can I borrow that term? ;)
Casey, "May their karma kick them in the butts in the near future." I think I didn't use your words, but that's pretty close to what I said to Oliver while we "enjoyed" their company...
Jim, I did and still do. Just fab!
Single Guy Chef, Yes they were. They may seem small, but after the final course I felt walking like a stuffed duck - and we skipped dinner all together because we didn't feel hungry for a long time.
David, Didn't I tell you, that I don't take advice from Americans who miss to use a separate changing area before yoga class? ;)
Rasa Malaysia, Very much to the point. I think it is tempting (or easy) to fall for anything labeled "the best", but frankly, I've had more memorable meals for way less money.
Wow, the portions do look awfully precious. But from what I understand, going to the French Laundry and having a home-style Italian meal (for example) are two different beasts. The latter is eating, the former is like attending an art opening where you get to put the art in your mouth. As food-crazy as I am, I think I enjoyed hearing about the next table the most. I sort of figure that if you have dinner in a public space rather than at home, you have to expect just about anything. The cost of the meal doesn't change that, in my opinion, unless you request a private room. I love watching others when I go out - it's part of what makes dining out interesting. Thanks for sharing your story.
beautiful photos! funny story! the last time i went to the french laundry it was sooo quiet, you could hear a pin drop. Because people in my party weren't afraid of talking, we got stared at the whole night. Food was awesome- everything was great! It's an experience anyone who is into food must have.
**btw, we weren't talking loud! just normal levels**
Susanne, You're right about "you have to expect anything", but - in my opinion - a bit of common sense in how to behave doesn't hurt the dining companion at the next table ;)
Tracy, Mind you, the casual talking or occasional giggling and laughter doesn't tick me off - it's obnoxious and intrusive behavior I'm not too fond of...
many years ago we booked a table with the same amount of drama in the middle of the night in Australia and received a booking for a table for 2!!...hence our 11 and 13 year old had a long picnic in the shade next to the restaurant ...much to their delight Thomas Keller in full chef whites at the end of service marched over to our hire car and delivered a platter full of petit fours and chocolates to two very delighed children...at least they got to meet him!! a great memory!
Mandy, What a fabulous story! That's what I call special service ;)
sorry too hasty with my posting please may I correct my post to read Thomas Keller...shame on me!!
EDIT NICKY: I thought you used in on purpose, no worries, I corrected it ;)
I don't know if I would have been able to tolerate that other party, especially with their little drama going on. Still, it looked like a great meal.