recipes : savorySummer or not - David's Panisses

Do you own a deep fryer? I don’t. Sometimes I regret it, but it’s one of those kitchen appliances, that I can’t see myself using more than once or twice a month, certainly not enough to justify the acquisition and deal with another dust collector crowding our shelves. It’s not that I don’t like fried or deep fried food: Pittole, homemade potato chips or apple crullers are among my favorites and the crisp-factor makes it easy to overlook their rather unhealthy character – from time to time. Here is my workaround: if something deep fried makes it onto my cooking list, a wok or medium sized pan/pot together with a thermometer usually do a good job and let you – in most cases – get away with less oil or fat (think pan fried instead of deep fried).

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But not only the health aspect makes it hard to embrace fried food, hot and sultry weather aren’t exactly a great basis for frying frenzy. However, munching away on hot and greasy food after a long and freezingly cold winter stroll is so much more satisfying and yet, when I spotted David’s Panisses I decided NOT to wait for colder temperatures. More Panisses posts and memories of Nice sent me straight to Ganesh (a little Indian snack shop down the street) for some chickpea flour and we we’re good to go …

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The procedure is straight-forward, similar to fried polenta or fried semolina, yet I found it harder to obtain a smooth batter without any lumps. Since it’s a typical Mediterranean specialty I urge you to only use olive oil, it makes the hell of a difference. They make a great snack with a spice mix and your dip of choice, yet I have to agree with FoodMayhem: Taste-wise they are a close relative to Falafel and my favorite way of eating these Panisses is inside a pita bread together with sliced tomatoes/cucumbers, cole slaw and a spicy yogurt sauce. Already a regular on our table.

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Lightly oil a square cake pan (mine is 23 cm/9 inch) or line it with plastic wrap. In a medium sized pot heat the water together with olive oil and salt until hot (but not boiling). Whisk in the sifted chickpea flour (all at once) until you receive a uniform texture without lumps (my second attempt with different gram flour was less successful concerning lumps, no matter how hard I whisked – I used my handheld blender to smoothen things out, worked wonders!). If you decide to spice things up a little, now is the time to season to taste (try curry, garam masala, cayenne pepper, chili powder, cumin, garlic – everything that goes well with chickpeas).

Using a wooden spoon or spatula stir the mash over medium heat for about five minutes (David does for more than ten), until the mixture is pretty thick. Dump the batter into the prepared form, smoothen out the surface as good as possible (easier said than done) and let cool, then chill in the fridge until really firm (at least two hours – or over night).

Unmold the firm mixture onto a cutting board and cut into thick stripes. You gotta love David for his prescriptions: “…and slice into batons about as wide as your fourth finger and as long as your middle one…” (comparing Oliver’s hands to mine, that makes quite a difference ;)

Heat about 2 cm (3/4 inch) of olive oil in a cast iron pan until shimmering hot, then fry the panisses over medium to high heat in various batches, making sure not to overcrowd the pan. Turn them using your kitchen tongs as soon as the bottom sides have reached a nice golden brown color, fry on each of their four sides until evenly browned and crisp.

Remove and drain them on paper towels, then serve with coarse sea salt or your favorite spice mix (my panisses mix consists of coarse sea salt, freshly ground cumin, garam masala powder, dried chilis and freshly ground black pepper).

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David's Panisses

Recipe source: adapted from David Lebovitz

Prep time: ~30 minutes, frying: 5-10 minutes per batch

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Ingredients (for 4 as a snack):

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1 l water

1 tbsp olive oil

1/2 - 1 tsp fine sea salt (to taste)

300g chickpea flour (sifted)

optional: spices like curry, garam masala, cayenne pepper, chili powder, cumin, garlic

more olive oil for frying

serve with: coarse sea salt or a spice mix ( mine includes coarse sea salt, freshly ground curmin, garam masala powder, dried chilis and freshly ground black pepper

Comments

Little pieces of your mind

Those look fantastic! That recipe is definitely a keeper...

Cheers,

Rosa

July 15th, 2009

Sounds like a great snack with a spice mixed yogurt sauce, some cheese may also accompany these. When I use olive oil to fry such things, most people look at me as if I'm doing something weird. (I'm from Mediterrainan region of Turkey and living far to there now.) Nice to see others using olive oil for frying.

July 15th, 2009

ich kriege die Teile einfach nicht hin....entweder wird's Beton oder die zerbröseln.....Bei Dir ist's parfait. Beim ersten Anlauf?...

Also hier ist Sommer, und zwar richtig.....

July 15th, 2009

Every time I visit your website, I am deeply impressed by your new recipes. I don't have a deep fryer, too. But that doesn't matter. I do it the same way you did. And the result is very satisfying!

July 15th, 2009

oh, I'm glad you can use a pot or a wok since I don't have a fryer. These look fantastic!

July 15th, 2009
Kerstin Frenzel

Gestern habe ich für meine Familie Deinen indischen Brotsalat gemacht und alle waren begeistert! Panisses waren mir bisher unbekannt, werde ich aber auch bald auprobieren. Viele Grüße aus Augsburg und weiter so!!!!!!!

July 16th, 2009

I've never seen these before, but they look like they'd be tasty with a dip. Handy that they're gluten free too!

July 16th, 2009

Definitiv ein Rezept zum Nachkochen! Ich war ziemlich überrascht beim Recherchieren zu lesen, dass das Gericht ursprünglich aus Italien (Ligurien) kommt. Es war mir bis jetzt gänzlich unbekannt.
daniela

July 16th, 2009

Now I have a use for that G. Flour I bought a few months ago for another recipe. That recipe disappointed, but this looks like a winner. TKS GREG

July 16th, 2009

A deep fryer is one of the tools I'll save purchase of until I have a "dream kitchen." Until then, I'll follow the same route as you, especially if it leads to delectable treats like these.

July 16th, 2009

I agree - I think deep fryers are pretty cool and would be neat to have one built-in, but i'd only use it for fries and such, which i think are just as tasty baked, or even pan fried.

these look super tempting though - even in the hot weather! it's cool inside :)

July 16th, 2009
Katharina

I had similar ones on a trip to Antibes and now I'm able to recreate them. Thank you so much, they look so good!

July 17th, 2009

I do own one and it makes the best doughnuts. I just use it once a year. Your recipe turned out great.

July 17th, 2009

That looks lovely. Here is a tip to have a quick lump free batter. Pour the liquid over the flour and let it rest for 10 mins. If you mix after there won't be much lumps.

July 17th, 2009

I think that summer is a fine time to have some great fried food, as long as it's not too heavy or greasy. I love using chickpea flour and making these delicious fritters. I like serving them with a bit of homemade mayonnaise alongside some fresh grilled fish and a refreshing salad.

July 17th, 2009

Those images are seriously engaging.

July 18th, 2009

Reading you blog title too quickly, especially the word 'Panisses' got me off on the wrong and slightly shocking foot.

They do look lovely though.

July 20th, 2009

I am all about enabling, so I say any time inspiration stirkes in a fried form, go for it, sister!

And never mind that it's summer--hello, carnival food?! Elephant ears, funnel cakes and panisses for the fancy people. Perfect.

July 21st, 2009

I try not to eat fried food too regularly, but some things are best done fried and hard! I think I've become more of a frying convert here in the Philippines where these people are masters at it, particularly when it comes to pork (fried fat, can't be beat!)

But those panisses do look beautiful - I have seen them on David's sight previously... If anything like a falafel, I'm sure I'd be a convert of those too :)

July 23rd, 2009

looks delicious. Awesome post. Keep blogging! :) - thehungrydude

July 24th, 2009

Am so glad you liked them, reminds me it's time to make another batch!

July 25th, 2009

Ooh..gram flour!! Makes the tastiest batter in the world!! I love it! But then I'm from India so I guess that's not such a surprise.
Good adaptive recipe! I would almost always like to eat the flour on something though...like vegetables f'r'instance. Specifically thinly sliced potatoes or slivered onions! *smack*smack* Besan (chickpea flour), a little salt, chilli powder and then...delicious bliss.!!

August 3rd, 2009
 

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