recipes : savoryPizzoccheri della Valtellina - Embracing comfort food!

It hasn't exactly been chilly beans the past weeks, temperatures were good and the winter is treating us nicely. Ski fanatics may object, but I can't say I have missed the icy roads and the masses of snow we got buried under last year. Although last years conditions gave us plenty of excuses to indulge in comfort food, I noticed I don't need sub zero temperatures to get excited about down to earth, hearty food. Substantial meals like lasagna al forno or macaroni and cheese or mashed potatoes, pumpkin soup, potato fritters, chocolate pudding or Tiramisu, apple pancakes with cinnamon... woooow can someone please stop me?! I'm just about to realize, that many of my favorites dishes probably are comfort food. Wait, here is one more, make some room guys for the new kid on the block: Pizzoccheri della Valtellina!

Baby chard

Last year our dear friend Hande introduced us to this tagliatelle-shaped buckwheat pasta specialty. Dinner nights at Hande's place are not just great they're the best! Especially when she returns from her trips with lots of new cooking ideas and inspirations and uses us as guinea pigs. No we don't mind. Never. The pasta's origin lies in Valtellina, a part of the Lombardy region in northern Italy and while some people may immediately be intimidated by this recipe's amount of butter and cheese, don't be, it's worth every bit of it: love at first sight

Preparing cheese

A word on the used ingredients. The traditional recipe calls for buckwheat pasta, which provides a completely different mouth feel than the conventional pasta we normally use and therefor is key for this dish. It wasn't easy to track down here in Munich, where I eventually found a package of Moro Pizzoccheri at Viktualienmarkt (Hammer Feinkost, specialized in Italian food, near Kustermann), otherwise I would have tried my luck at Spina. If push had come to shove, with a little extra effort, I would have probably tried this recipe by Giorgio Locatelli for homemade buckwheat pasta.

Cheese-wise there is a broader repertoire suitable for this pasta dish, most recipes ask for a mix of grated Bitto, Fontina, Parmesan or mountain cheese, key however, is that the cheese melts quite easily under the hot butter in the final step. The dish is best presented in a huge serving bowl, from which everyone helps themselves, adding to the dish's character of a rustic cottage meal.

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In a small pan, melt the butter together with the cloves of garlic and the sage leaves. Keep on low heat while continuing with the next steps. The butter will have plenty of time to simmer and get infused with garlic and sage, but keep an eye on it, to avoid burning it (it should not get dark!). Crush or slice the cloves if you're in for an extra garlic kick.

Meanwhile turn to the other ingredients: Wash, peel and cube (about thumb size) the two raw potatoes, wash the chard and grate the cheese (I used Parmegiano Reggiano and Fontina).

Bring a large pot of water to a boil and add a generous pinch of salt. The only possibly tricky thing about this recipe is the cooking process as such, as it is done in one single pot. Depending on the ingredients you use (fresh pasta versus dried pasta, chard versus baby chard versus savoy cabbage, big potato cubes versus thin slices) you should spend a thought or two about the order you add them to the boiling water. In the end, everything should be cooked to the point without any ingredient overcooked.

Since it wasn't my first Pizzoccheri attempt, I already knew that the buckwheat pasta takes a bit longer (15 to 17 minutes) than the packaging instruction suggests (12 to 15 minutes). So I started off by adding the potato cubes to the boiling water, shortly followed by the pasta itself. Occasionally stirring, I waited until the pasta was almost done before I threw in the chard - baby chard is so delicate, it only needs to be cooked a very short amount of time (1 to 2 minutes).

Drain the cooked vegetables and pasta and layer them with the mixed grated cheese in a huge serving bowl, ending with a layer of sprinkled cheese.

Discard the garlic and sage from the hot butter and - now this is my favorite part - pour this sinfully rich concoction over the layers and see everything melt together under the butter's heat.

Add some freshly ground black pepper and a pinch of freshly ground nutmeg (if desired) - serve immediately and get some comfort!

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Pizzoccheri della Valtellina

Recipe source: adaptation of Hande's recipe

Required time: 20-30min.

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Ingredients (serves 3-4 comfort seekers):

125g butter

5 large leaves of fresh sage

2 cloves of garlic, peeled

2 mid-sized potatoes, peeled, cut in cubes (~thumb size)

300g Pizzoccheri (dried buckwheat pasta)

2 handful of baby chard, washed (or regular chard, savoy cabbage)

200-250g freshly grated cheese, mix 2 different ones (Bitto, Fontina, Parmesan or mountain cheese)

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

optional: a pinch of freshly ground nutmeg

Comments

Little pieces of your mind
Maria

I have never even heard about buckwheat pasta, but as long as it could be called comfort food I'm sure I want to try it. Chard is not really one of my favorite vegetables, but your baby chard looks very convincing!

February 16th, 2007

Oh you had to mention apple pancakes with cinnamon didn't you...haha. My wife and I have been craving those for days now.

This dish looks delicious and the pictures are fantastic.

February 16th, 2007 subscribed
Anne-Jet

Hi!
Where can you buy chard in Germany? I live in Amsterdam and I never saw it. Did you buy it in a Bioladen? Thanks! Love the new layout of your blog!

February 16th, 2007

Wow - for a second there, I saw your site "naked" - with the default theme. Very spooky.

Beautiful recipe - I love sage, and mine is still growing quite happily in the garden despite the winter weather.

February 16th, 2007
Sue

I don't often cook pasta, but this recipe looks great.
Are there any benefits in buckwheat pasta over wheat pasta (besides the taste of course)?

February 17th, 2007
Carola

I'm a huge fan of everything prepared with wheat pasta but haven't had the chance to eat buckwheat pasta yet. Your Pizzocheri might become a new addition to my menu, I'll have to check at my local Italian deli for ingredients. Bitto is also new to me.

February 17th, 2007

Très beau blog et superbe recette ! Bravo
verO

February 18th, 2007

Uih, das sieht super lecker aus und das Rezept verspricht einem Gaumenfreuden. Das muss ich unbedingt nachmachen. Die Zutaten gibt es hier eigentlich auch alle, selbst verschiedene Blattkohlarten, wie den Wirsing. Nur, glaube ich, werde ich mit den Buchweizennudeln Pech haben. Dazu muss ich mir ein Rezept suchen. Buchweizen-(Soba-)Nudeln mag ich sehr, esse ich sie doch immer beim Japaner. Und super gesund ist Buchweizen ja auch. Den kann man auch angeröstet als Tee aufgießen.

February 18th, 2007 subscribed

Oh, this pastas are beautiful. I love italien food... It's so good ...
I try it this week-end ...

February 19th, 2007 subscribed

This is as beautiful a recipe and post as I have seen. Truly Delicious.

February 19th, 2007

Looks delicious. I would love to try it. Beautiful photos.

February 19th, 2007 subscribed

Jason, I know, merely the thought makes one crave 'em. Writing this response in fact makes me want to have some right now... let's check the fridge... how about late night pancakes!

Anne-Jet, We usually buy our (baby) chard at the Viktualienmarkt, but I'm sure you can get it at one of the better stocked grocery stores, too. Regular chard is pretty common here.

Scott, Darn. Oliver thought he could get away with it. That's what happens when WP's intelligence takes over...it's really a fallback mechanism in case IT THINKS -who told it to think- something is wrong with the existing theme...oh well.

Sue, Besides the taste, there shouldn't be a huge difference between wheat pasta in general and buckwheat pasta specifically, both can be a great alternative for your pasta table.

Brigitte, Ich hab ein Rezept zu Buchweizen-Pasta verlinkt, solltest Du also nicht fündig werden, dann kannst Du sie natürlich als Fleißaufgabe selber machen ;)

February 20th, 2007
Helga

Da läuft mir doch schon wieder das Wasser im Mund zusammen - Pizzoccheri !!! In meinen 9 Jahren Italien habe ich die oft und gerne gegessen (natürlich nur im Winter), und diese sehen genau so aus wie sie aussehen müssen. Wird unbedingt nachgekocht, bevor es zu warm wird ;-)
Liebe Grüße
Helga

February 21st, 2007

[...] naturellement le comfort food à la maison. Celui-ci se traduit de différentes façons, selon les cuisines et les cuisiniers, et n’est pas à l’honneur seulement lorsque c’est dehors qu’il fait [...]

March 4th, 2007

It's THE dish a friend loves, so I mastered it, and although I am a self-indulgent type, I couldn't like it. It was for me way too rich for the flavors provided. For that much fat I wanted my mouth to start singing on its own. I had hopes, because all the ingredients are on my favored list, but...

March 10th, 2007

hi guys,
we just used up our last box of pizzoccheri that we buy in Rome when we are there in the summer, so I googled "pizzoccheri buy" to see if they are finally available online in the USA but no luck so far. fontina vall d'aosta is the best cheese for this from the nearby region of italy (not valtellina), if you are interested in our pizzoccheri stories and the sausage modification visit
http://www.drbobenterprises.com and look for the pizzoccheri recipes.

This is a must try comfort food!

February 21st, 2008 subscribed

What a beautiful recipe.

March 9th, 2008
 

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