September 12th
2006
Ever had a food deja-vu? I strongly believe that certain food is inseparably linked to childhood experiences. Russian Bread being one of them. Whenever I spent time with my great-grandmother who we called either "Max", short for Maximiliane, or "Sam" (it's origin is a mystery to me), I tried to make her stroll around the neighborhood with me. Well, for one, because her apartment, which very much reflected bygone times - dark and heavy furniture with stuffy air, was not exactly the place a kid wants to play all day. On a sweeter note: Leaving the house, I always made sure to steer us in the right direction, never failing to miss that tiny little candy store just two corners away.

The old lady behind the counter was a good friend of my great-grandma and both ladies loved to chitchat about the recent neighborhood gossip, hence my ulterior motives always found her approval. Amidst ordinary single-family houses the little corner shop didn't quite fit in, but only on the very first sight.
Next to a shortened selection of daily groceries, the owner sold - first and foremost - a broad repertory of candies & cookies as well as chocolate and ice cream. Naturally it was THE go-to place for all the neighborhood kids and was deemed to be the only worthy semi-fixed investment around (big pocket-money $$). Being pampered by my great-grandma, I never had to leave empty handed and coincidentally some of her own favorites sweets always found their way into the paper bag: Eiskonfekt and Russian Bread.

I couldn't dig up a proper translation for Eiskonfekt, but they essentially are little chocolate buttons produced with coco fat or similar to lower their melting point, and thus produce a cooling effect in one's mouth to give the impression of iced chocolate. This effect increases if the chocolate is stored in the fridge. There is no middle ground, you either hate or love them - to me, simply the typical sweet treat I'd get from all my grandparents. Just like Russian Bread. These cookies' origin is not proven beyond doubt: While Germans claim that a baker from Dresden imported a recipe for "Bukwi" from St. Petersburg around 1844, the Austrians argue conversely. During the 19th century the Viennese imperial household is said to have developed the bread to welcome Russian envoys. Either way, it was very popular during my childhood, with an educational side-effect! As a kid I could show off my spelling skills (or lack thereof). Yet it never occurred to me to try and make them myself - until I stumbled upon this recipe in a German cooking forum.

Beat the egg whites in a large bowl together with a pinch of salt until they become very stiff (stiff enough to flip the bowl without making a mess).
Add sugar, vanilla sugar, cinnamon and cacao to the stiff egg whites, then blend in the flour until evenly combined.
Preheat the oven to 170°C (340°F). Cover your baking tray(s) with parchment paper or a silicon mat. Fill the batter in an icing bag and carefully pipe the alphabet or other shapes onto the tray. While the first attempts may look a little imperfect, you'll become better with every new shape and letter. Be careful to leave enough space in-between, the cookies tend to rise a bit in size.
Bake on middle level for 10 to 15 minutes. The best way to find out if your cookies are done, is to take one out (they may still feel a little soft) and let it cool for 1 minute (they turn firm quickly and become crunchy). Remove them from the oven when done and let them rest on the trays for a few more minutes before picking them up. Store them in an airtight container as soon as they cooled down completely to keep them crunchy.
Resume: They turned out just like the real thing, with their typical and unique taste. Some a little sticky and chewy (baking time was too short) most just really crunchy. And...piping the alphabet in a nice and good-looking way isn't as easy as I would have thought...try yourself!
Russian Bread
Recipe source: adapted from chefkoch.de
Prep time: 30 min., baking: 10-15 min.
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Ingredients (yields 2-3 baking trays):
4 egg whites
a pinch of salt
125g white sugar
2 tsp vanilla sugar
2 tbsp unsweetened cacao
1/2 tsp cinnamon
150g flour
These are lovely! Just the kind of baking job I love, somewhat akin to writing or drawing. I bet my kids would love these. What size tip did you use for the letters?
Ich kenne nur die Version von Bahlsen und die hat meine Schulzeit mitbegleitet, von Wandertagen bis zum Landschulheim. Klasse Idee mit dem Nachbacken, dabei sind Dir die Buchstaben doch gut gelungen!
A neat idea for a kid\'s birthday! I don\'t think I ever had these cookies, but I\'m sure my kids will love them. The smaller one will start school tomorrow, maybe I can bake a batch for his schoolcone.
My granny visited us twice a month and she always brought us our favourite sweet. This was both for my bros and me the Russian Bread. And now my son falls for it.
And Eiskonfekt was one of my favourites at the school kiosk.
How very beautiful. Both the cookies and your grandmother with her little grand-daughter! And what a great time piping these out.
Could I have just a small bag of these?
c'est super joli !
Beautiful! These look great!
How cool! Love the letters! Certainly better than my own handwriting :-)
Huh. How intriguing! Great for kids!!
Just came across your blog, and these are one of my favorite cookies. Your post brought back a lot of memories! I plan to make these this weekend.
As soon as I saw these, I "remembered" the taste, although I'm not sure I've ever eaten them. My family is from Russia though... I'll have to go ask the parents- I must have eaten them at some point. Thanks for the (non)memory.
I bet my mum would have found good use of these letters when she spent her whole professional years teaching French kids to read and write.
Gute Idee mit der Schultüte, meine Tochter wird zwar erst nächstes Jahr eingeschult, aber das Rezept ist schon mal gespeichert!
hmmm... i need to try this as soon as possible...my favorite ones since i know how to eat!
My little kiddo (18 months) loves these cookies! Thanks for sharing the recipe, I'll try to recreate them myself now.
OMG...my great-grandmother was feeding me Russian Bread too! She always kept a bag in her room. I'll try to make them as soon as I come home.
I tried the alphabet cookies for my son's birthday, we played a fun game with them and they were a big hit! Thanks for inspiring me :o)
Thank you for posting such a delightful and informative article! I am so excited to try this recipe. These cookies bring back such warm childhood memories, as do the "ice chocolates"--- did our parents and grandparents all have the same favorites? :) I must take my niece to a German store and continue the "legacy."
Thanks for this story, such a great read!
I put the link to this blog entry underneath one of my latest photos re. Russian Bread ;-)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/nane-zwerg/1529417579/
Oh my goodness, can't believe you actually found a recipe for these!! I was just looking to order them online. My Grandpa, who just passed away at the age of 90 in August, used to buy me little bags of these at the Alpine Bakery in Bakersfield, California. I liked eating the R's best! Now I can share them with my husband, too. And bake a whole batch of R's, if I want . . . :)
Wow, this sounds good. Will give it a try! Thanks for sharing it.
Rachel, 'Glad I could help! Nothing beats nostalgia-cookies ;)













You got to be kidding me, you found a recipe for Russian bread!? My favorite cookies of all time, I could empty a bag within half an hour. Off to the kitchen, I'd say... Thanks for sharing!