May 30th
2006
We'll gladly leave the typical 4-week-once-a-year-getaway at peak holiday times to the many families with kids that usually are required to travel at times when school is out for summer; instead we have decided this year to throw in quick trips to neighbored countries or close by ones anyway.
After our rainy Salzburg trip we've been checking the weather forecast frantically - not that it would have made much of a difference - but it sure looks like the weather god wanted to make up and provided us with perfectly blue sky on our little journey to one of the most beautiful and quaint cities in Europe: Lisbon.
The benefit of having been to a foreign city before is that you don't feel compelled to do everything and beyond, rushing from place to place. This time we simply focused on a reasonable list of options, making sure to give us some leeway in case we wanted to squeeze in some of our previous favs. And we did!
Even though many guides recommend to avoid certain areas of the city at late hours, we always felt absolutely safe. No sweat whatsoever and our quest for finding the new spots took us pretty much criss-cross the city. With the many steep streets (somewhat similar to SF) my feet were begging for breaks every so often and towards the end of our stay we made more and more use of public transportation - which except for the bus situation in Cacilhas - is very easy to figure out and use.
A must-do is tram 28 (catch it at Martim Moniz), which will take its passengers on a scenic ride from the city center at sea level up through the narrow maze of streets towards St. George Castle. A really pretty and interesting tour we ended up doing more then once...
A word on Taxi drivers. Some of them obviously have some sort of death wish - flying through the narrowest and most run-down city streets defying all laws of physics. On the other hand looking at the many dinged-up cars, maybe they can't walk on water. Check for seat belts before you get in, just for peace of mind. In any regard, besides the metro and the wonderful vintage street cars (day passes are little $!) cabs are not very expensive and can get you in off peak hours quickly from here to there.
Hotel-wise I'm almost inclined to say look no further and although I'm very positive there are more wonderful hotels in the center that I haven't seen, look no further! The Tejo is the place to stay, very stylish and located right next to the Rossio. This combo is hard to beat. Making our travel arrangements on short notice required us to also stay at the Tivoli Lisboa, a perhaps slightly antiquated but charming hotel with more of a business-oriented appearance of the likes of Sheraton. Ask for a room on the top levels with balcony, as they provide a great view over downtown. A nice add-on is the heated pool in the cozy backyard, well protected from the busy streets and city noise. Walking distance to the Rossio is less than 10 minutes.
Shop 'till you drop. No kidding, Lisbon offers great shopping opportunities whether it be one of the many small mom and pop shops around the corner or the biggest mall on the Iberian peninsula (Centro Comercial Colombo at Avenida Colegio Militar, Metro: Colegio Militar/Luz) with over 400 different shops.
Food (especially Port and Bacalhau, dried & salted cod) is omnipresent and the countless Pastelarias (with great creations besides the famous Pasteis de Nata) easily manage to keep your sugar level on a constant high. Not necessarily the worst thing for sweet teeth like us! Coffee is generally very good, right at the counter you can have your little cup for about 50c, on the patio they tend to ask for a bit more. For port wine tasting, Lisboa Solar (Rua de S. Pedro de Alcântara) is always a good option.
Prices can vary quite drastically, so it's advisable to always double check with a second store, especially when shopping for ceramics. A disappointing visit to the local flea market Feira da Ladra was quickly forgotten when I discovered a tiny stall with my favorite blue and white ornamented handcrafted bowls and plates. Negotiations weren't easy - the old man and I didn't share a common language - but in the end I left happily and heavily loaded... PS: If your other half is a golfer, there more than enough beautiful and scenic courses nearby to keep him a very happy hitter while you're on the road spending some money!!
On the culinary front we've been to places that we found to be excellent on past occasions as well as new spots. While we've not been let down by our favorites, some of the new experiences unfortunately couldn't quite hold the candle to our past finds.
Stravaganza, an Italian place located in the Bairro Alto (famous for its nightlife), was a lucky find. On our way to Olivier we accidentally passed by it and were instantly attracted by its lime green visual appeal. Small (read: quaint), yet spacious enough to not have to sit on your neighbors lap and equipped with a well designed interior. The menu covers the usual suspects you would expect from an Italian restaurant. We liked the food, we liked our waitress better - very attentive and simply the cutest thing.
Right after Versailles, Brasileira would be our no. 2 choice for best coffee house. We shared a table with two very friendly and helpful locals who helped us to decide on our next (food) destinations in the city. Although their English was impeccable, I wouldn't go as far as pretending that everyone in the city speaks English. Anyhow, even at times it got a bit more complicated, we never encountered a situation we couldn't manage - body language always works like a charm.
Speaking of language, while our distinguished waiter at Versailles (we always run into the same guy, he must be working there for decades now) is fully capable of speaking English he seems to get a kick out of our poor attempts to order and pay in Portuguese (and we play along, try to anyway) and would gracefully save us guessing confirming in English. Located north of the city center and thus slightly off the tourist tracks, this is our favorite cafe of all and only few tourists seem to find their way to it. With a breath taking array of savory (for instance torrada, hot buttered toast, slightly salty) and sweet treats - all at little prices - it will leave nothing to wish for. Our usual breakfast consisted of coffee, the best freshly squeezed o-juice, torrada or tosta mista and something sweet for less than 12 EUR - for both of us!
Pastéis de Nata as these sweet cream tarts are generally referred to are sold throughout Portugal's pastry shops (Pastelarias) or cafés. The real McCoy -Pastéis de Belém- you'll get at the aptly named Cafe Pastéis de Belém (Rua de Belém, no° 84 a 92). A tad greasy but crisp on the outside, filled with delicious and still warm custard in the inside, sold with an extra mini package of cinnamon, it's no surprise that these are considered the real deal.
Going further west (by train that is) you will find Estoril (also known for its F1 racing circuit) next to Cascais, both lovely and lively resort towns with great beaches right at the beautiful coastline.
On our march to discover the devilish Boca do Inferno, we accidentally bumped into Rosa Maria, which we actually had put on our list, but then decided to skip. Thinking of Inferno, we thought "ah what the hell" and gave it a try. The restaurant (Rosa Maria) is part of a hotel (farol design hotel) and restaurant combination. From the outside hardly believable, the interior is very well designed, including the bar, restaurant & individual rooms facing the ocean as well as the country side.
They're booked out way in advance, so make sure to make your travel arrangements in time. The main restaurant we couldn't try, it was closed in the afternoon (what?!?), so we sat down near the bar simply to find out that they ran out of two dishes - well, of course the ones that we wanted - leaving us with little choice but to go with a good ol' CHEESE SANDWICH.
Back in the city we finally paid Olivier a visit, now with proper reservations. One black-wainscoted room with only 10 or so tables (40 guests max) and an old fashioned ring door knocker were an auspicious start. The entire and non-negotiable menu included 9 starters (5 cold, 4 warm), a sorbet and a main course. The starters were true taste bud pleasers and alone worth the money, the main course, on the contrary, inedible. The fish Oliver had gotten and the beef I opted for were totally void of taste and on top tough as shoe leather - it's a miracle how one and the same cook can be responsible for the wonderful starters we had already enjoyed and this disaster. Only a chain saw or lightsaber could have possibly helped here - Reading Oliver's look, I swear he thought "Use the force...". And we saw other guests' main courses going back to the kitchen almost untouched... With the dessert picking up the initial culinary level, we should have simply skipped the main course!
Perhaps less exclusive, but definitely delicious Portuguese food we found at Casa do Alentejo (Rua das Porta de Sto. Antão, 58, Baixa). Great location, and despite being close if not on the beaten path, we didn't see a single tourist. A great recommendation from our brief acquaintances at Brasileira.
No photos at LA CAFFÉ (Av. Liberdade, 129). This stylish cafe/restaurant is pretty stringent about prohibiting the taking of pictures of basically anything on their premises, which we respected (baring our teeth). Quite unfortunate, because their interior design and likely because of it, is very well done. Perhaps a bit on the "cold" end but with an extravagant touch. Service is rather stiff, but fast. Food is prepared well, with the occasional advanced dish slightly off the 100 percent mark. 98 percent is still pretty darn good though.
Now if you have any recommendations on Lisbon, feel free to add them in the comment section, as this wasn't our last trip to this charming city. Definitely not! ;)
And what's next? Not sure, 'still undecided on our next destination...
You guys are pretty lucky to go to such beautiful places. Again, wonderful photography and a great guide on Lisbon! Makes me want to go there... maybe at the end of summer.
Goddd this makes me want to hop on the next flight to Lisboa. I have another valid excuse (reason cough cough) my best friend Teresa who lives in Lisboa is pregnant!
Wahnsinn, da bekommt man Lust direkt loszufliegen! Tolle Bilder, toll geschrieben, hallo Fernweh :)
It's always funny to see the city we live in thru the eyes of people from other places. What a lovely pack of pictures you have taken. It's good to know, that even having so many problems as a city, Lisbon can leave such a nice mark on somebody heart.
I've been reading this blog for quite sometime, and I take the opportunity to give you my congratulations on such an excelent project.
Best wishes,
Pedro
Beautiful, beautiful. I feel like a very much needed ray of sunshine just made its way into my office. I especially like the last photo of the old man reading the paper. The sun seems warming yet gentle. Your photos aren't just beautiful, they make me feel good!
The city of my heart... :-)
It's wonderful to be able to do a little armchair travelling through your posts. The photography is incredible, and I especially love the market shots, and the shots of people.
Out if curiosity, how many languages do you speak?
The first picture is like the most perfect postcard...thanks for sharing your wonderful trip, it sounds fabulous in every way!
Beautiful pictures, they are just gorgeous. Just wondering what lens did you use for these photograghs, if you don't mind me asking?
Oh how I love your trip tips. I want to travel just like you! Everything looks fantastic. I'm saving this as well as Salzburg. Thanks for sharing!
I've been reading your blog for quite a while and was very surprised to see such beautiful photos of the city I live in, Lisbon. I must say that you mentioned restaurants that I had no idea that existed (except for Olivier) and now I'm dying to try them. When you come back to Portugal, I strongly suggest you visit Sintra, a historical little town 30 kms away from Lisbon. Go to Tulhas and have the best cod gratin you can imagine and then head to Periquita to satisfy your sweet tooth (you'll quickly forget about pastéis de Belém ;-)).
Now, keep the great photos and recipes coming.
Hugs, Marta
Lissabon steht schon lange auf der Liste meiner Wunschstädte, euer Beitrag tut da natürlich ein übriges! Schon gebookmarked, vielen Dank für die Tipps.
lovely travel post guys.
frances mayes has a good chapter on lisboa in her latest book that may provide some inspiration for your next visit
Quero Lisboa...tengo muinta saudade de ela...
Me lembro de a Brasileira, de a Alfama, de o' 25 de abril...
Ma en cada dia que passa eu esquesei o' portugues...
Desculpe Lisboa se nao me lembro a tua falada musical...
quero votar...
Como sempre, lindas imagens, num design limpo, muito bem colocado. Fantástico esse site!
Parabéns também aos amigos portugueses por possuir lugares tão bonitos. Adorei as fotos de mercado, peixes, temperos.
O texto é super agrádável de ler, parece que a gente está junto na viagem. Parabéns!
Very nice post! You must have had some good time there. I wish I could visit this town...
Absolutely delicious photography throughout. So sunny, so cheerful. Thanks for sharing this lovely time!
Nika
I already wanted to go to lisbon because my best friend brought me back some delicious pasteis de belem from her trip; but now i MUST go...
Fanny
I've never been to Portugal before, but you makes me want to go there for a weekend trip. Wonderful photography, you should seriously consider doing this professionally!
These are beautiful pictures of a city I have loved to visit a few years ago! Looks like a great gateway! Lovely post!
Thanks for sharing - now we have to add Lisbon to a growing list of destinations. Your candid shots of people are wonderful.
Looks fantastic!!
Pasteis de Nata! Die hatte ich ja völlig vergessen! Hab euer Rezept gleich ausgedruckt, werde ich mal ausprobieren.
Euer kleiner Guide zu Lissabon ist übrigens wirklich ein Lichtblick bei diesem Schmuddelwetter :)
what a great post! sounds like a wonderful trip!
Wonderful photos and descriptions!
Best,
Paz
Gosh - its been 20 years since I visited Lisbon. I still remember the smell of those burnt cream pastries baking very early in the morning and caldo verde and fresh lemonade and a grilled cheese sandwich at a cafe one afternoon. Thanks for reminding me.
Wieder einmal ein wirklich guter Beitrag. Sonnig und kreativ, gerne würde ich dort auch hin fahren wollen, aber werde es in der nächsten Zeit leider nicht ganz schaffen. Aber super toll, bei Euch habe ich für kurze Zeit das Gefühl ich bin dort. Gruß Thomas
end of august i will be there to visit my family and the land i love the most. lisbon is simply great... and it fills me with happiness, that i'm not the only one who loves this city.
PS: Lisbon Revisited - Fernando Pessoa.. GREAT.
how do you find the Lisboa Bar in haidhausen?
Oh Lisboa do meu coração!
Hi Pedro, We've truly enjoyed our stay and it certainly hasn't been the last one. Not only because there is still so much for us to discover (e.g. Sintra, like Marta pointed out), but because of how welcome we felt during our stay (and our visits before).
Hi Beccamonster, hm, we really only speak German and English, understand to an extent Italian, French and a tad Spanish, and know the one or other word in Portuguese. In summary enough to survive in a foreign city :)
JenJen, we had two lenses with us on that trip, a 17-55mm zoom and a 80mm prime lens.
Hi Marta, Thanks for the additional info and background. We actually thought about visiting Sintra on the last trip, but for some reason decided to put it on hold. Well, perhaps only to have a good reason to come back soon...
Jules, Thank you for the book recommendation!
LaCuocaRossa, Eduardo, Whooow, 'sooo glad there is Altavista's Babelfish, with only the few words Portuguese I know, I would have been quite lost :) -- thank you for the kind feedback!
Nice city, but Porto is nicer...
Its a beautiful life...beautiful journey...thanks for sharing your story and photos...
Popped over here from Camilla Engman - wow, I really want to go to Lisbon now. The trams! Those little custard tarts! It looks beautiful - maybe your photographs caught the beauty others don't see...Thanks for your great photo's and recommendations - lovely site too, I will be back! Claire
oops, just realised I popped over from Karin's style blog, not Camilla Engman - not enough coffee yet this morning confusion!
absolutely stunning in every way. i am so glad you got to take such a lovely holiday and that you are sharing it with us. i have been so out of touch ... you are too sweet to send the postcard. i will email you soon! this beauty made my day {i'm laid up with a cold this weekend}. xx! mav
[...] Freizeit am Wasser und der Selbstversuch mit Pasteis vom Pasteis de Belem. Danke an Delicious Days für den Tipp! [...]
Like your recipes, you are truly delicious! I’m a proud Portuguese now. Lisbon is where I live and it is truly my city. “Food tips” for next time: Restaurante Bica do Sapato and Papa Açorda (from the same owners). The first one is quiet “fashion” with an accurate cuisine, the second is in Bairro Alto, very traditional – both of them are superb! Near LA Café, where you have been (I like it but it is a bit cold, don’t you think?), there is a cervejaria (beerhouse??) called Ribadouro. It is the best tip for seafood in Lisbon. For stunning views of the river and the other side, go to Museu de Arte Antiga (Ancient Art Museum) and have lunch in the gardens. The service is simple (you take your own tray outside…) but the food is good and the scenery is unbeatable. Afterwards you can take a look at the Museum’s pieces. In Cascais, furthermore Boca do Inferno, you have Guincho – a beautiful windy beach with some of the more exquisite restaurants. Try the “peixe ao sal” (fish cooked in salt) at the Furnas do Guincho or Porto de Santa Maria.
To recommend places I love in Lisbon would take me 2 or 3 more days… All the best for you!
Natacha, Thank you so much for the tips! Friends of ours will visit Lisbon (and Cascais) at the end of August, so I'll make sure to send them your recommendations (and of course keep them for our next trip...).
I'm speechless. This post is simply amazing.
I am a Portuguese "young" man living in Ireland and I just felt at home for the last 10mins while reading this.
I won't recommend any restaurants because you have done it already and very well. Natacha has also added a few more which are sooo good. My only recommendation is to avoid the touristy places. Lisbon is a great city and has a lot to offer. My contribution for this post will be some Portuguese terms that we use in cooking. Nothing too special but it might help a bit, especially in small traditional restaurants, Tascas (my favourites) where there are no translations:
Terms for cooking
Cozido: Cooked/boiled in water
Frito: Fried
Grelhado: Grilled
Cabidela: Cooked with blood
Escabeche: Normally fish with olive oil, garlic, vinegar and onion (really good)
Bife: Steak (can be any meat, not only beef)
Espetada: A stick with several pieces of meat or fish. Grilled. --0-0-0-0--> Lovely
Types of meat
Vaca: Cow
Porco: Pork
Leitão: Small pig
Frango/Galinha: Chicken
Pato: Duck
Coelho: Rabbit
Iscas / Fígado: Liver
Fish
Bacalhau: Cod. The most famous one which can be made in many different ways, for example "à Gomes de Sá"
Espada preto/branco: Swordfish black/white
Atum: Tuna
Sardinhas: Sardines (whole fish)
Arroz de Marisco: Rice with shellfish and fish. Really good
Massada de peixe: Pasta with different fish and shellfish.
Ovas: Fish eggs (great salad)
Polvo: Octopus (even better salad or in rice)
Lulas/Chocos: Squid
Keep going with your great work.
Ruben Carvalho
Hello Ruben, WOW! Thank you so much for you kind words, the translations and great explanations, I wish we had those before we visited - but then again, there for sure will be a next time and we will pass them to our friends who will travel to Lisbon next week :)
I was in Lisbon last month, so your pics and memories are still really "aktuell" for me too. Sintra, already recommended above, is an excellent tip. The restaurant I most liked was 1 der Maio (Rua da Atalaia 8, near Baixa-Chiado) but for views definitely Chapito.
What a wonderful picture essay on Lisbon. It's my new favorite European city after I visited there in sept. I definitely want to return, it was very inspiring. And I had a fabulous time hanging out in the Barrio Alto and dancing up a storm at Lux! Check out my Blog on Lisbon at
http://www.downtowndollhouse@blogspot.com
Beautiful pics.........I hope that I can see it for my self someday
We visited Lisbon last summer and we felt in love. The food, the shops, the people, yhe music... the pasteis de belem mmmmmmh. Gorgeous!
Lissabon ist meine absolute Lieblingsstadt, werde diesen Sommer wieder dort verbringen und habe mir gleich eure Tips notiert. Ausflüge nach Cascais und Sintra sind immer ein Muss!
Well.. been to Lisbon last summer, loved it all! What else may I say? I dream about goig back there. Most beautifull place in the whole wide world and your pictures show it.
Great photographs (as everyone has already pointed out)! I'll add my own Lisbon recommendations for those wishing to visit it: Chapitô restaurant has the best views and well-presented dishes in the city. And one of my favorite restaurants is "Viagem de Sabores," right by the "Sé" (cathedral) that mixes Portuguese and a variety of international flavors.
I recommend you take a look at the Go Lisbon website for more information on these restaurants as well as for those who'd like other ideas for a visit to Lisbon. It seems this excellent blog has wet people's appetite for it! :-)
Thank you for some lovely views of a sunny Lisboa. We really enjoyed our week despite rainy, wintry weather.
Ruben, that is a wonderful guide for meals. However, my greatest difficulty was actually reading the handwritten menus. Unfortunately, it's been quite a while since I have read European handwriting. But for the most part language exchanges worked out very well.
Yes...those pasteis. Who couldn't fall in love with them! We too will go back to Portugal!
I'm trying to organise a trip for when my mum comes to visit me in London (from Sydney another great place to visit!!) and after this post and the pictures, I'm definitely considering Lisbon now. As we are vegetarian I was wondering if there are many vegetarian options in the menus? Will I have a problem ordering or finding vegetarian food? Any tips would be great! Thanks! xx
Hi, Leng. Being a vegetarian in Lisbon/Portugal is a bit hard, I have to warn you! Meat, specially, but also fish and seafood are a must in our gastronomy. However I'll give a few names of vegetarian restaurants in Lisbon: Psi (very nice, in a small garden, good food and ambience), Terra (has a good buffet lunch in week days, in the evening and weekends is overpriced, I think), Jardim dos Sentidos (also nice, in the city centre) and Oriente (a vegetarian buffet in Chiado, one of the prettiest areas of the city). In other restaurants, it is diffcult to find vegetarian dishes. Have a nice holiday!
Next time you visit Portugal try to visit the Azores islands too. You will definately like it :-)
Another nice place to enjoy vegetarian food is "Os Tibetanos" Rua do Salitre, 117, Lisboa Telefone: 213842028 Web: http://www.tibetanos.com.
It is a center for Budhism. You will also find a library and yoga classes... :-)
Check the opening hours and If you wanna go there for dinner, a reservation is useful. They have nice lunch offers. Prices in the evening are different.
Thanks for a wonderful post. We'll be going there in September for two days and I wasn't sure what to expect. I've jotted down many of your recommendations and expect to have a wonderful time. Thank you.
I see you went from Salzburg to Lisbon. Which kind of cuisine did you enjoy more? The Austrian one or the Portuguese?
Beautlful post...your pictures are simply works of art! We just returned from 3 nights in Lisbon...3 nights were not enough! I will definitly be back there!
Restaurants- all EXCELLENT choices
Lisboa A Noite (Barrio Alto)
Pap Acorda (Barrio Alto)
Doca Piexe (Docas)
Pasteis de Belem (Belem)
Cafe A Brasileria (Chiado)
Veranda (Ritz near Eduardo Park)
Must Visits:
Discoveries Monument (Belem)
Maritime Museum (Belem)
Se Cathedral (Alfama)
St Georges Castle (Alfama)
Barrio Alto
Solar Vino De Porto (Bario Alto)
Chinese Pavillion (Barrio Alto)
T
[...] Delicious Days Revisits Lisbon: Take a peak into the incredibly culinary history of Lisbon. [...]
Wow...your photos are stunning!